. My Italy: Heading for the Cooking School [9-27-09]

Saturday

Heading for the Cooking School [9-27-09]

On Sunday morning, I departed Monte Argentario, crossing over the causeway to the Italian mainland and setting out across southern Tuscany for the hill town of Arcidosso (“Arch-ee-DOH-soh”) -- the site of my one-week Tuscan cooking school.

With GPS mounted on the windshield, Arcidosso was easy to find, even in this hilly country with steep winding roads.

Let me say a few words in praise of this gift from the American military to the world of tourism. GPS “real time” guidance has expanded the freedom of travel like nothing else since the invention of the rental car. I have a Garmin Nuvi, but I know the other brands are probably just as good. Before I left Dallas, I downloaded the new European maps (about a 2-hour download to my home computer) and then transferred that data to the little Nuvi. Next (at my brother-in-law’s recommendation) I located each of my destinations in Italy on Google Maps, and for each such location I followed the Google “send to” process to get those specific addresses into my Nuvi. Each pinpointed address was then given an easy name to remember, like “Lucca Hotel” or “Vernazza Parking Lot.” Those names were automatically stored in my Nuvi’s “Favorites,” and the rest is history.

When I set out for Arcidosso, I picked “Favorites” on the Nuvi touch screen, then “Casa Innocenti” and “GO!” The British lady who lives inside the Nuvi (I call her “Rose” because she sounds like that character in the old “Upstairs-Downstairs” PBS series) begins to give directions (in addition to the screen presentation) for how long to stay on this particular country highway, how far to my next exit, etc. Sometimes Rose gets addlepated when I follow a clear highway sign that doesn’t match her recommended way to reach my destination. My rule is: “Highways signs, when clear and understandable, trump Rose, no matter how upset she may become.” When I divert from her path, she interjects, with a truly sarcastic tone of voice: “RECALCULATING.” I doggedly continue on the clearly marked course to my destination, and she all but starts waiving red flags: “RECALCULATING . . . TAKE THE NEXT AVAILABLE U-TURN . . . AND THEN LEFT TURN . . . RECALCULATING . . . CONTINUE 300 FEET AND THEN, LEFT TURN . . . RECALCULATING . . . “ I suffer her snobby tone long enough for her to realize, at last, that I’m on the right road after all and only took an “unauthorized” link-up she knew not of. Of course her tone immediately changes . . . as if nothing had happened . . . “Continue 13 and a half miles.” Peace at last. I wouldn’t trade Rose for anything. I know she’s trying her best, and that’s what counts. She can’t help it if she doesn’t know every last service road improvement recently installed by the Italian highway department. Even so, I have to admit a little relief when I finally arrive at my destination and get to hit her “power” button -- giving her some needed time off.

My Tips for Traveling in Italy

One excellent tip for foreign travel is NOT to pay too much attention to “tips” on foreign travel from others (except on the subject of safety and security, or course). Vacations are time for exploration and adventure, and you can preplan it to death. On the other hand . . . there IS a lot to know. If you’re curious, here are some observations I’ve made in several trips to the ultimate “Mother Country.”
MAKIN’ COPIES! ::: Make Xerox copies of your driver’s license (blow it up on the Xerox machine so it’s easy to read), your medical insurance card, and your passport. Of course you will take the originals with you, too, but having a copy of everything safely tucked away in your suitcase “back at the hotel” is a good idea in case things get lost. Or, keeping the originals in the hotel safe and carrying the photocopies around with you . . . might even be a better idea. I make an additional set and slip those pages, unfolded, between the silk inner lining of my main suitcase and the outer shell. There's a little zipper that let's you into that space in most lined luggage items. Next, using a typical digital scanner, scan the info pages of your passport as a .pdf or .jpeg file ..... then email that digital document to yourself and let it hang out in your "INBOX" while you're on vacation. If you lose your passport and physical copies, you can always go to the consulate and use one of their computers to pull up your email account, open that email and attachment, and present to them a digital copy of your lost passport so you can have them issue you a new one promptly. Also, the airlines now advise that you make one extra copy of your itinerary, including detailed flight schedule, and place it inside each item of checked luggage - - to be the first thing officials will see when they open your bag in the event it has become lost. They can see who you are and where you are going and then take prompt steps to get your bag routed back to you for an emotional reunion.
PLANNING TO SHIP STUFF HOME? ::: If you plan to buy anything in Italy and have it shipped back, a good idea is to go ahead now and print up some large-font shipping address labels and take them with you. Include your US phone number as well as shipping address. Then, when you buy something, ask the vendor to use the label you hand them on the shipping carton. That’s one way to be sure it will be correctly addressed.
CELL PHONES. ::: It’s a great convenience to have a cell phone while traveling in Italy. Remember, many older U.S. cell phones won’t work in Europe (you must have one of the newer GSM models which allow you to shift from GSM American frequencies (859 and 1900) to GSM Euro frequencies (900 and 1800). These Euro-usable phones are now very common in the U.S., but check it out before you go if you’re not sure. Consider going ahead (before you leave) and programming into your cell phone all of the dialing numbers you might need over there, like the hotels you have booked, rental car agencies you will use, airline numbers, and the standard emergency number (113, not 911). Remember to program the numbers they way they would be dialed IN ITALY - - not from the U.S. Example: + 39 360 454 23 38. Properly labeled and stored, your phone use in Italy will be quick and convenient.
PASSPORTS. ::: If you haven’t already done so, check your passport once again just to be sure the expiration date isn’t slipping up on you. It’s not enough that it’s valid on the date of departure, or even through the expected date of your return home. The laws of most countries require MORE than that. Plus, the airlines won’t let you on the plane if it expires sooner than two weeks after your scheduled return date - - and the Italian government (and many other countries, too) will refuse entry into the country unless your passport expiration date is more than three months (!) after your scheduled return date. Some countries require SIX MONTH of passport validity AFTER your scheduled date of return. So, bottom line, don't play this one close to the wire; make sure you have lots of time left on your passport (like 6 months, to be safe). My rule of thumb: If your passport is set to expire in less than 9 months from "now" … go ahead NOW and apply for a new passport. When you arrive, make sure an official actually stamps your passport. This will prove that you have not been in Italy for more than 90 days without a visa. If you fail to get it stamped (like if the government agent's stamp is out of ink or something), you could later be put in the awkward position of trying to "prove" you have not been in the country for more than 90 days. Don't worry; this is normally NOT a problem. When you arrive, you will have to pass by an immigration agent's booth and he or she will stamp your passport. Just be alert to the need for this stamp to be legible. Also, if you have traveled internationally many times, your passport booklet may no longer have open space for a new arrival stamp. If that's the case, absolutely renew your passport ASAP. If the customs official cannot find a clean space to stamp, you will not be allowed to leave the airport and will have to take the next flight back to the States. No kidding! No “visa” is required for Americans to visit Italy for less than 90 days. If you are planning to stay longer than 90 days, get a visa before you depart the U.S. Apply to the Italian embassy in Washington: www.ambwashingtondc.esteri.it. Technically, you are supposed to have your passport with you at all times while you are touring through Italy. It’s one of those European things – very 1940s. As mentioned above, I generally leave my real passport at the hotel safe, etc., and just carry a color photocopy of the main information page on me (neatly folded into my wallet) when I’m on the streets. I don’t know if that’s legal, but I’m assuming they simply want a way to quickly verify who we are. If you say your original is at the hotel, etc., it’s easily verified and hardly seems suspicious. The exception is when you’re driving . . . then I’d have the originals on me.
SHOTS. ::: Public health officials “recommend” (not a requirement) that any traveler to a Mediterranean country should get a Hepatitis-A vaccine several months before going over. Even if you’re running late on this, you’d have some protection. Hepatitis A is spread by food and water and is an unlikely, but possible, problem in that part of the world. Better safe than sorry. It’s easy, cheap ($25 at County Health Dept. at 2377 Stemmons Freeway @ Motor St., in Dallas . . . over $100 at your friendly doctor’s office), and not painful. Also if you have not had a tetanus/diphtheria shot in several years, this is a perfect time. It will protect you on your trip, and here at home. It also makes sense to get a flu shot if you’re traveling in the fall or winter. You will be couped up with dozens of other people on airplanes, trains, restaurants, etc. Why take the chance?
CREDIT CARDS. ::: Speaking of credit cards, before you leave, remember to call the phone number on the back of your card(s) and tell them you will be in Europe for this specific period of time. They will make a note of it in their database so your card isn’t suddenly suspended by the credit card company’s “anti-fraud division” upon your first “surprise” foreign purchase. Your credit card company DOES want you to tell them where you will be, so they can expect the charges and not “bounce” them. Also consider taking your bank ATM card (which, yes, is useless in Europe if you’ve never obtained, or can’t remember, your personal “PIN” number). Credit cards and bank ATM cards work equally well . . . but be sure you remember your passwords & PIN’s
CASH MONEY. ::: Even though there is a small surcharge for the convenience, I always make sure to have Euros on me when I land in Italy (i.e., I acquire them from my bank in Dallas). Yes, there are ATM machines at the arrival airport - - somewhere - - and it probably has a line of 45 people who got there before you did. Yes, hotels and restaurants will take your credit card with no problem (and your credit company might be one that charges you the conversion rate plus a 1%, 2% or 3% handling “surcharge” on all such purchases … you should call and ask them before you depart the USA because you might have one credit card that has a 0% "foreign transaction fee") - - but you will still need “cash money” elsewhere. For example, tipping the porter that helps you get your bags into the taxi, paying for the taxi ride into town, tipping the bell boy who brings your bags to the room, or even a restaurant that happily announces to you that they accept "cash only" after you have already eaten. Having some 1-Euro or 2-Euro coins, or some 5, 10 and 20 Euro cash on hand - - without having to wait in line - - is a great convenience and time saver. I sometimes buy small things, like a bottle of water, so the cashier will give me coinage and small bills as change. HOW to get your Euro supply is up to you. Banks like JPMorgan CHASE do have “International” windows that will sell you Euros in exchange for cash, but they do charge “retail” rates for that service. You can also go online and buy Euros through RailEurope www.raileurope.com/currency.htm Or call them at 1-877-393-6739. Mention reference code: REOPTC. This must be handled AT LEAST 10 days before your departure. If you bring back Euros and IF you want to convert back into dollars, they will buy them back at the same rate they sold them to you for, up to the amount you purchased from them, not more, and only to the extent of $2,500 worth of Euros. That’s very fair. Given the dollar’s slide against the Euro, folks who “forgot” to convert Euros back into Dollars have made out like bandits in the last few years.
WHAT NOT TO PACK. ::: Don’t take irreplaceable heirloom jewelry on the trip, no matter how fetching it would have made you look strolling down the boulevard. Take things you could stand to loose and then relax. Take a cheap watch, that looks cheap.
AIRPORT SECURITY TIP #1. ::: Keep your eyes on your bags at all time. Airports and train stations are infamous all over the world for attracting petty thieves on the lookout for a dizzy, happy-go-lucky, jabbering tourist who has left his or her beautiful leather suitcase by the wall 30 feet away while waiting for the next one to plop out of the carrousel.
AIRPORT SECURITY TIP #2. ::: If anyone approaches you who is not in a uniform you recognize, be very suspicious. That goes for cute kids trying to sell you a stupid newspaper, or an attractive teenager posing as a bewildered Euro-tourist, innocently asking YOU for directions (of all things). They are often nothing but decoys to get your attention while the real transaction is taking place behind your back. If someone spills something on you, they are likely trying to steal something from you. It’s that simple. If you stop for a coffee, keep your bags with you (like between your legs or in a chair next to you, or with the strap circled around your ankle). If you are approached by a group of kids, they have spotted you as a target. If you feel threatened, feel free to yell “NO!” or “VIA!” at the top of your lungs. Local adults will immediately see what’s happening and come to your aid. Stay well away from men on motorcycles cruising the area. They will reach over, grab your purse off your shoulder, and disappear before you know what happened. I’m not trying to make your paranoid, but these transportation centers are notorious. Just play it safe and keep your eyes open. If you take a few simple, common sense steps to protect your belongings, they will be practically impossible for anyone to take away from you.
STREET WALKING. ::: If you want, you can take one of those small documents & cash bags you wear around your waist, big enough for your passport, tickets, money. Wear it in front. I usually wear jeans, which tend to have tight pockets (i.e., difficult to pickpocket), and I keep my wallet in a front pocket instead of in the back. At the villa or hotel, you can safely store your belongings in your room or a provided safe, of course, and lighten your load for day touring. I take a single-strap over-the-shoulder bag for walking the streets. It contains the things that won’t fit in pockets: camera, bottle of water, cell phone, city maps, GPS device, etc. Then I pay a lot of attention to never letting go of that bag!
RENTING A CAR AND DRIVING IN ITALY. There is no doubt that the advent of GPS systems makes driving in a foreign country MUCH easier than it used to be. MUCH easier! But first, about rental arrangements. You may have already gone online and identified the Hertz or Avis (etc.) car you want to rent - - but that doesn't necessarily mean you need to grab that car THROUGH Hertz or Avis. There's a less expensive way. Go to www.autoeurope.com and search for the same car, picking it up at the same location, and dropping it off at the same location. You'll probably find the same car at 10 to 20% less cost. And I don't mean you'd be getting an identical car . . . I mean you will be getting the SAME car, parked in the Hertz or Avis parking lot at the airport, or wherever. That's because AutoEurope negotiates wholesale deals with the major rental agencies and gets a big break on the prices due to the large-scale arrangement. You benefit. So, go ahead and rent directly from a "big name" company if you want, but I'm just saying, you don't have to pay retail if you don't want to. Another tip: When I rent a car in Europe, I tend to insure it, and myself, to the hilt, as they say! I want to be free of any worry about scratches to the car, etc., while under my control. It costs more, but you sleep so much better! Now . . . THE THREE GOLDEN RULES for Driving in Italy: ::: (1) Don’t drive into the small “walled” towns you’re not sure of what you’re getting into. It may be fine, but it also may be very frustrating. It’s usually a more pleasant experience to park outside the old city walls and walk from there to explore the town. ::: (2) Never take a "white road" (unimproved country roads) - - unless you know that’s what you want to do (i.e., it’s a beautiful day, your gas tank is full, everyone has a water bottle, you have no time schedule to follow or deadlines to meet, and the driver is rested and a naturally patient person. Then, sure, it will be a beautiful experience. Of course, many “country roads” are now improved, well paved, beautifully maintained and well marked at intersections with other country roads so you’ll know whether to turn or keep on going straight. ::: (3) When you get anywhere near your destination, park at the first parking lot you see; do not try for something better. There may be no place to easily turn around and go back for the one open space.
FUEL. ::: If you are renting a car, be sure you know up front if it uses gas (“benzina”) as opposed to the more typical diesel (“diesel”). I put gas in a diesel car in France once. That took awhile to fix (by getting another car). What a mess.
HIGHWAY SPEEDERS. ::: Driving on a super-highway (“Autostrada”) is not difficult, but if you don’t feel like driving as fast as other motorists, just get over into the right lane. The only thing the speeders get upset about is someone driving slow in the left lanes - - or driving so slow in the right lane that literally everyone is forced to pass you. Just go with the flow and you’ll be fine.
TRANSMISSION: ::: Unless you specify otherwise, they will assume you want to rent a manual-shift transmission car. If you want automatic, you have to specify that, and be prepared to pay more IF they are even available. I always get automatic if I can, because the last thing I need while driving in Italy is one more thing for my brain to have to consider. If they offered automatic steering, I’d probably get that too.
TOLL BOOTHS. ::: You can pay cash at the Autostrada (super-highway) toll booths, but credit cards are an easier alternative. To pay with a credit card, as you drive up to a toll booth, look for the lanes that have a large sign showing multiple cards, sometimes being held by a hand, and sometimes being labeled "CARTE" (meaning "cards"). That’s the correct lane to get into. There will probably be no attendant in the booth, although they are never far away. You will have received a typical paper toll ticket when you entered the Autostrada earlier, so first put that toll ticket into the machine (with arrow pointing forward). That tells the computer where you’ve just driven from. Next, slip your card into the slot (face side up, left side enters the slot first). It will disappear. If it comes back at you and you hear the voice talking to you with instructions in Italian, it may be trying to tell you to turn the card around the other way - - or it may be telling you that card is not accepted / try another card. . Oddly enough, some toll booths accept only Visa/Mastercard and other accept only American Express, so do come with both handily. You never really know which cards a particular station will accept. If nothing works, shift to Euros. When complete, your credit card will be run out to you again and you’ll hear the voice say “bla bla bla, ariverderci!” - - the gate will lift and you’ll be on your way. Press the red button if you want a receipt for your scrapbook. By the way, you may also drive onto a "pre-pay" tollway. That means that, although you DON'T have a starting-point toll ticket, you are being told to shove your credit card into the slot (or Euros). That just means that this segment has a single charge that all autos must pay, so there's no need for a starting-point ticket. Just pay it and be on your way.
SERVICE STATIONS. ::: Where to get gas? In towns, the service stations are easy to see and the people that work there are always very friendly. In smaller towns, they might seem shy, but that’s probably because they are not confident about their English. On the Autostrada, you will see huge convenience plazas, sometimes on both sides of the freeway with a connecting sky bridge which doubles as a restaurant for both sides. It’s easiest to stop here, gas up, visit the powder room, buy a Diet Coke, and hit the road again. Remember that service stations in towns are often closed over lunch (1:00 to 3:00 PM). If you are in a fix, often even closed stations have self-service pumps you can put money in or use your credit card. I practically never let my fuel tank reach 1/3 full.
SIGNAGE. ::: Be sure to have a travel guide with color illustrations of highway and street safety and traffic signs. If you don’t have one in a guide book, ask the car rental agency for one. You can also find them on the Internet with searches like “international road signs” - - but print them out IN COLOR. You’ll become adept at knowing the “Do Not Enters” from the “Minimum Speeds” etc. Also, try to accept the fact that Europeans have never adopted American street sign customs. It’s too bad. Our signage customs actually do make a lot more sense, but . . . there you have it. Streets in Europe usually have no “street signs” - - you have to scan the sides of buildings near the intersection, as you drive, hoping to spot one of those tiles or masonry/stone blocks imbedded in some of the buildings (not all certainly) which contain the engraved, barely readable name of that street (or that plaza intersection). These imbedded street signs are much harder to spot, especially for the driver who is simply trying not to hit other cars or pedestrians. Also, once you know the name of the street you’re on, don’t expect it to keep that name for more than a few blocks. Italians like to bless any given street with multiple names in succession - - nice idea, terribly confusing to tourists. Highways are different, too. Sometimes Autostradas (super highways) are marked with their numbers (like “A1”), but most often the navigation process (knowing whether the upcoming exit is the one you need to take or not) depends on your knowledge of the other towns in that vicinity. A country highway intersecting the Autostrada might be marked only with the name of a town or city 50 miles away from the exit. You may not be aware of that city’s existence. In the U.S. knowledge of cities usually doesn’t matter. If you’re traveling on I-35 northbound and want to exit onto westbound 114 to go to DFW Airport, the sign won’t say “Bedford” - - it will say “114 West,” and you’ll know from the map that 114 is the highway that crosses the northern tip of DFW. At least knowing what to expect in Europe prepares you for the experience – and who knows, eventually European roads and highways may start being marked like we do it here in the U.S. I actually saw one street “sign” in Rome this year. Progress! By the way, I’m more than willing to accept that in many things Europeans are superior to North Americans - - just not in the area of road signage.
CITY DRIVING. ::: In major cities, drive with your car doors locked, always. If you want to drive into the center of a small town (usually the “old section” that most tourists love) look for signs to “Il Centro.” I say “small town” because if you try to drive in Milan, Rome or Florence, I can’t help you. You will survive, yes. But it will take lots of time, luck, backtracking and patience, and you may have to live with never having found your intended destination. Besides, in many major Italian cities a "ZTL" ordinance ("zona traffico limitate") restructs unauthorized vehicles from driving in the historic city centers - - so be aware of "ZTL" signs if you're bound and determined to drive into these cities. Check with your hotel when you book: they can sometimes arrange a limited exemption with the local police department. The fine for violation is about $200. To delete that as an issue, I sometimes drive to the small town “nearest” the large city, park my car there, and hire a taxi cab to take me into the city. I’ve never had a problem doing it that way. For visiting Florence (Firenze), I like to park in the little paid parking lot in Galluzzo, just south of the city, cross the street to the little cafè to buy bus tickets, and take the city bus all the way to the Florence train station in the middle of town. Or, even taking a taxi from Galluzzo into Florence is fairly inexpensive.
COUNTRY DRIVING. ::: Driving from town to town in the countryside is much easier, as long as you have a detailed map (like the Michelin “Italy: Tourist and Motoring Atlas” which is fantastic) or a GPS device with “European Maps” downloaded. Remember, too, not to become too intimidated by the distance on a map between two towns. All of Italy is smaller than the state of Arizona. These places are pretty darn close together, even if they’re on two opposite sides of a regional map.
NAVIGATION. ::: There’s no “right turn on red” in Italy, generally. One European driving experience that sometimes gives Americans pause is the infamous “traffic circle.” At first it seems like half intersection and half bumper car roller derby. Actually, it is a way to have a semi-controlled intersection of multiple roads without the aid of a traffic light, and it works well if you’re used to it. You drive up to the “circle,” enter it carefully (always going counterclockwise in Italy), yielding to any traffic coming toward you from the LEFT, and follow the circle around until you get to the “spoke” (the street or road) you need to take “out” of the circle. If you miss your spoke, just go around the circle again and peel off when it comes up the second time. Change lanes carefully, and watch out for other drivers . . . they are probably from Iowa and more confused that you are. Looking for their own exit from the circle, they may not be paying attention to your upcoming lane change.
INSURANCE AND DOCUMENTATION. ::: You will be required to pay for car theft insurance when you rent a car in Italy. Some agencies also force you to purchase collision coverage - - even if you are already covered by your own car insurance policy back in the U.S. Some major credit card companies also automatically provide collision insurance when you use their card to reserve and pay for the rental. To rent a car in Italy, you do not have to show an "international drivers license." They will probably only ask to see your regular state-issued license. This is odd, because you can be fined by the police (about $110) for NOT having an International Permit if they stop you for some reason. International permits are available at your nearby AAA office for about $15. (www.aaa.com) It's a silly license that means nothing. You walk in, show them your regular license, they take your photo and your money, and you're done. Still, I always carry one when I plan to rent a car in Italy. I suppose the international license makes it look as if you’re trying harder to comply with local law.
RULES OF THE ROAD. ::: As you plan your trip, why not take the time to look up the traffic regulations currently in effect in your destination country? It's easy to do. Just go to www.ideamerge.com/motoeuropa. Generally, though, in cities and towns the speed limit is never higher than 31 MPH (50 kilometers per hour is how you will see it posted, of course). The speeds are faster on the highways. 90 km/hr on main roads (that’s 56 MPH) … 110 km for small cars and motorcycles on superhighways (that’s 68 MPH) … and 130 km max on superhighways (that’s 81 MPH). Some roads have just three lanes. The middle lane is for passing only. Don’t even think about passing without first signaling with your blinker, and then blinking all the way through as you pass. If you pass without blinking first, it really irritates the Italian drivers (they like a “fair warning” of your intention to shift lanes). If a car in front of you signals and pulls into the middle lane, it means you are being invited to pass him “from the right.” Just gun it and get ahead of him; he’ll then come back into the right lane. This seems odd (and maybe even dangerous), but I’ve seen happen it a number of times. I think it may be their way of saying that you were tailgating. At intersections, cars coming in from your right (just as in the USA) have the right-of-way to you . . . yield to them. If you are coming into an intersection and see a car to your left, they are probably yielding to you … proceed cautiously. The exception is the famous “traffic circle” (see NAVIGATION section above). Remember also that pedestrians have the right of way at striped (“zebra”) cross walks. Seat belts are always compulsory in Italy.
TROUBLE. ::: If you have trouble, call 116 from any phone to receive English-speaking roadside assistance. For medical emergencies, call 113. On superhighways, you can use the emergency phones placed every mile and a half or so at the side of the road. If you get pulled over by the police, it's not the end of the world. They are well aware of how confusing it can be to drive in a "foreign" country. Have your documentation ready for them (drivers license, International Permit, rental car registration) and greet them with a smile and a "Buon giorno, signore." Just doing that might help you get off with a "warning" you won't entirely understand. Cop an attitude ... and I'm not responsible for whatever happens next.
PARKING. ::: You are generally allowed to park on the right-hand side of any road out in the country (except on major highways, or near intersections or on hills which obstruct full visibility). In cities and towns, be sure you know the signs that signal where you can and cannot park. If your rental car breaks down, there will be a special triangular danger sign in your trunk. You are required (if your car is obstructing traffic) to place this sign 100 feet (30 meters) behind your car to warn oncoming traffic, so make that your first “task” if you have a flat … heaven forbid.
GOING BY TRAIN IN ITALY. ::: Although I enjoy driving in Italy (Italians invented highways, after all), I acknowledge going by rental car may be a bit easier for me because I speak a little Italian. If you don't speak Italian and are reluctant to drive in a foreign country, then certainly trains are a great way to get around in Italy. On trains, you have the benefit of never being lost . . . at the cost of never being in control. Be patient, and keep telling yourself, “It will eventually arrive.”
FIRST CLASS ONLY? ::: Sure, you can afford first class train tickets, and first class cars are more comfortable, but I also sometimes like traveling second class if it’s not too long a trip. The people are more fun to watch. Odds are, first class will be full of plump Swiss bankers smoking cigars and muttering to their grouchy fraus (well, that happened to me once). Second class will be college kids playing guitars. Which would you pick to spend a couple of hours with? Me, too.
TRAIN STATIONS ::: A long-distance express train is called the “IR” or “il rapido” or “ES” for EuroStar - - they’re great. The platform at the train station is called a “binario” or a “marciapiede” . . . and then the usual “Numero 6” or whatever. Remember, in a train station, just about everyone you will see speaks at least a little English, but allow yourself ample time to wander around and become oriented to how it all works before you have to actually board the train to depart. Obviously, arrival is “arrivi” and departure is “partenze.” You’ll need these two words to understand the schedule boards at the train station (“stazione”).
BUYING TICKETS LOCALLY ::: A ticket is a “biglietto” (pronounced “beel-yet-toe”), which is where we get the word “ballot.” To buy a ticket, look for the ticket windows . . . usually labeled “BIGLIETTERIA.” A one-way ticket to your destination is “di antata” (“for going, only”). A round trip is “di andata e ritorno” (“for going and returning”).
TRAIN SCHEDULES ::: A schedule of arrivals and departures is an “orario.”
TICKETING BEFORE YOU LEAVE THE U.S.A ::: If you’re going to travel greater distances, like from Rome to Naples, or Milan to Florence, you will probably want to go by Eurostar or some other high-speed train, with reserved seats in a first-class coach. You can make those arrangements before you leave the U.S., if you wish - - and if you’re pretty sure your schedule will not change in Italy. To do so, I like using Rail Europe (it’s in New York) at 877-393-6739 or online at www.raileurope.com Such tickets sometimes require you to reserve your actual seats at a TrenItalia rail station in Italy before departure; sometimes Rail Europe can do it from New York. Since such tickets are good for only a specific train at a specific time, there’s no need to “cancel” them at the train station, unless you just want to reinforce the good habit of doing that while you’re waiting to board the train.
THE ITALIANS ::: Italians are very friendly and patient people. They are pretty much beautiful to the core, young and old alike. Heaven knows where they get it. They adore ALL children and are usually very indulgent of their antics and noise, even in restaurants. If you run into a rude or dismissive cashier, just assume they are not "really" Italian - - they just speak Italian - - and then just make the best of it.
PARLA INGLESE? ::: If you want to ask an Italian if he/she speaks English, please try to do so in Italian. That’s considered a more polite way to ask the question. The easiest way to ask is: “Parla inglese?” (pronounced: “par-lah ing-laze-eh”). If they beg off, just try pantomime and sign language with a friendly smile. That usually works well enough to buy a ticket, get a meal or a snack, and rent a room. What else does anyone need?
ODD NUMBERS ::: Numbers will look a little different. Where we put commas, they put periods, and vice versa. So writing "1,123.50 dollars" would be "$1.123,50" when written in Italian (or USD 1.123,50). Who knows why. If you can’t understand the spoken number (the price of something, etc.), motion for them to write it down. Suddenly “cinquecentododici Euro” becomes 512 Euros.
COMMUNICATIONS: = = TELEPHONES ::: "Long Distance Calling Cards" - - If you have a long distance phone card, you can dial a special 172- number to reverse the charges to your card and dial directly into the USA with no need to speak anything other than English! The ATT number is 172-1011. 172-1022 is MCI. 172-1877 is Sprint. If you still have it, find and bring along the instruction sheet for using your l.d. calling card - - or call and ask them before you depart. = = PHONE BOOTHS = = To be able to use local phone booths, you’ll need either clumsy coins or a phone card “una scheda telefonica” (pronounced “oona SKEda teleFONica”). You can buy one at any airport or train station (or tobacco shop). I’d get one, just for insurance. To use it, push it into the slot, dial and talk, and when you’re done it SHOULD be returned to you.
PHONE NUMBERS. ::: Individual phone numbers are inconsistent as to the quantity of digits they contain. A regional area code is required for all numbers, and then it can take from 4 to 8 additional numbers to call a local hotel, etc. Information is usually “12.”
INTERNET ACCESS IN ITALY: = = I can't give you all the info you will need for solving Internet connection issues in Italy, but I can tell you about a great website that will educate you. Go to www.slowtrav.com then click on "Community" (the link at the top of the page), and pull down the "Forums" menu, and then click on the Italy forum. Signing up as a member is both free and easy. At this location, you will find numerous Slow Travel subscribers talking about their discoveries and tricks employed in helping them get reliable Internet service while traveling in Italy. It is a great website to know about for this and many other reasons.
AMERICANS TIPPING. In Italy waiters and waitresses are paid full salaries and, unlike here at home, don’t really depend on tips to earn a living. Still, the American tradition of tipping is certainly welcomed. You will often find an automatic service charge added to your tab. You can, of course, count that as your tip, but adding an extra 5% will do wonders for the staff’s attitude. If there is no “servizio” … don’t tip more than 10% or you will be seen as foolish. Strange but true. In bars, no tip is ever expected, but civilized Italians do “round up” to a logical number of Euros, and so should we (so, if the tab is 19 Euros, leave a 20).

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